Springtime and Some Plugs for MUWAGA?

Spring is here so we expect sunshine and showers, and to be wary of the frosts, even into May. For the most part we have missed the icy ground and snowfall this year. But the winds! In between storms there was plenty of opportunity to be out on the allotment to tidy up from last years’ endeavours. Not least, to finish spreading the manure, pick the last sprouts and leeks of 2021 before the “hungry gap”, and make ready for the first outdoors planting of the season.

In the garden we expect to see blue tits in our nesting-box again this year. Meantime, a bit of judicious Wisteria pruning in the autumn has hopefully reduced the nesting real-estate for annoying pigeons. Last year in the Clematis next to our front door, a thrush was in a trance-like state on her nest, awaiting the hatching moment. We always slipped by quietly, trying to avoid eye contact. Here also, autumn Clematis pruning made sure that nesting sites – desired ones – were undisturbed in springtime.

March activity in the greenhouse (and windowsills too) usually gives us sturdy plants for the April and May soil. Well-established seedlings in plugs or trays can now be sown outdoors into those (hopefully!) well-prepared, warm-enough beds. For us this includes cabbages, brussels, courgettes, chard and lettuce, even early beet. And tomatoes. These latter we like to spread between selected sunny areas outside (from late May) – and in the greenhouse where we have good control over watering, light and warmth. Always nice to see the differences in quality and numbers between the two approaches.

And why plugs? For us it’s a good discipline: in the deep past we were usually too eager to plant direct in the soil in early spring months. Pests and weather-induced failures would be frequent – even when trying to protect from frosts. To use plugs has twin benefits: controlling the seeds to avoid waste and having the joys of seeing those seedlings grow early in the season, protected and nurtured. Cold frames are always useful for gardeners without a greenhouse. Later in the season, direct planting is fine – but we find, never obligatory – except for root crops such as parsnips and carrots.

Meantime, more plugs ….! Our January Cheese and Wine event was sadly cancelled because of Covid misgivings. But with restrictions lifting, we look forward our April 27th talk, and to cheese and wine a’plenty at our rescheduled June 22nd AGM.

On another note, the pandemic has certainly given us all time to reflect. As a result, several committee members plan to move on, and so for 2022 we are actively asking for new volunteers to join the committee, so that MUWAGA continues to flourish.

Finally, we are delighted that our new website is now up and running. As well as showing MUWAGA events updates, this is an exciting new place for members to contribute their own stories, ideas, experiences and advice. Do please get in touch to see how to contribute.

As the man nearly said: “Let us hoe then, you and I”!

Some Advice for Allotment Newbies

Here is an article by Tony Lewis which was published in The Wychwood Magazine in June 2017. It contains some simple words of advice which are perennially relevant, and so worth another look.

Zen and the Art of Being an Allotmenteer

Being a person of little imagination, I thought I would plagiarise one of those iconic titles Zen And The Art Of Motorcycle Maintenance by Robert Persig who died this year (2017). It all came to mind when I was at the Milton allotments a few weeks ago and looked at the people around me –there was just this busy but calm ambience.

People have allotments for all sorts of reasons: saving money (although it may be marginal); growing food and knowing what has been used in its production; using it as a green gym; stress busting or just simply getting outside.

Of course, looking after an allotment is a combination of pleasure and hard work. We need the ability to accept that nature in its many forms will try to eat your food before you can get to it, and that the weather will not always oblige in letting your sowings grow and prosper.

Some people do give up, perhaps due to ill health or simply changing priorities. If so, it is a shame, but if you want to give it a go there are ways of making it more manageable:

Take on a half or quarter of a plot


Do not try to cultivate it all in the first year – clear a manageable bit of space and grow your favourite crops there. Simply cut the weeds and grass on the rest to keep it neat. You can always clear a bit more next year.


Ask your neighbouring plot holders for help – they are normally very approachable and happy to give a hand.

As an existing plot holder at the Milton allotments I, and I assume all the plot holders on any site, want to see our neighbouring plots in use and productive rather than hosting a load of rough grasses and weeds. There are plots free at Milton and Shipton, so if it sounds interesting to you why not give it a go? You will find a lot of helpful people pleased to see you there.

Contact the parish council ( miltonparishclerk@gmail.com ) or MUWAGA ( here ) for more information

Happy gardening

Tony Lewis

The Early Gardener

Here are extracts from articles by Tony Lewis which were published in The Wychwood Magazine  . They contain some timely advice and personal observations for gardeners at the start of a new year of planting and planning.

Sort the Seeds: February & March

Those MUWAGA members who order their seeds through the Association know they are on to a good thing as all seeds are half price. Currently we do this through Kings, and I have to say that they provide a very good service. This is very good value as you can easily save more than the annual MUWAGA membership cost in one go.

Whether you got your seeds through the Association or not, now is the time to get them sorted. Get shot of all those old time-expired packets, because while they may germinate, often they don’t do as well, and are weaker; parsnips and parsley are good examples of this.

The other advantage of sorting your seeds is that you can put them in the order you want to sow them so you are less likely to forget to do it. Lastly, if you do have seeds that are in date but you don’t need them, why not bring them along to the MUWAGA talks where we operate a swap table.

Easy Does It

Keeping with the seed theme, I think it is best not to be in too much of a rush to sow. The soil can still be cold so that the seeds sit and sulk and may just rot rather than get going. I tell myself this every year but still feel a very strong urge to get things going as soon as possible, often with mediocre results. A bad case of not listening to my own advice!

However, if you have a greenhouse or heated propagator then it is worth sowing seeds such as those for tomatoes and peppers early so they get a long growing season and then harden them off slowly before putting them in their growing positions once the risk of frost has passed.

Sow, Sow and Sow Again: April – May

I just love this time of year. Even if the weather can still be far from perfect you can say goodbye to winter and hello to the glorious rush of spring growth and it is going to get even better as the month passes. However, there is always a catch. If you have a garden and like us you want to grow vegetables, the weeds are even more pleased with the warmth and grow with enthusiasm.

My reader will know that Linda and I are trying a no-dig approach on the allotments (or at least reduced dig) so I am pondering my approach to keep the weeds under control. Not being the tidiest of allotment holders I always have plenty of weeds (very good for the compost heap) but instead of digging them out I shall have to hoe them and pick them up to compost afterwards – it may work if I can be a bit more organised.

I find sowing seeds a very positive experience with the promise of crops to come. Many seed packets say you can sow in March (even February sometimes) but I have learnt from many previous failures to forget the dates and just watch the weather.

I have often sown in April and the plants usually catch up. You need soil that is not too damp and which has warmed up to about 7 degrees or the seeds may just rot and you have to sow again. The general advice is to sow in batches over a few weeks which gives you a good chance of beating the vagaries of the British spring.

If you are able to start your plants under cover that gives you more options and many tender plants such a tomatoes, peppers and even runner beans, squashes and sweetcorn need to be raised with a bit of protection and then put out once the risk of frost has passed. Tomatoes probably needed to have been sown in March (but you can always buy plants to save the bother) and runner beans and squashes in April to be ready to go outside in late May.

Happy gardening
Tony Lewis

Wildlife and Gardening – Always a bit tricky

Hare today – Hare tomorrow

The Hare raises a complete range of opinions amongst allotmenteers, ranging from ‘get rid of it’ to ‘how lovely’. It seems to have taken up daytime residence on my plot and I am in the ‘live and let live’ camp – it’s safe with me.

Some blame it (there may be several as I can’t tell one hare from another) for a lot of damage to crops but I have suffered very little so I am inclined to think it is unfairly blamed – it will nibble some stuff but not much as far as I can tell.

So, I like to see it and if we choose to provide the hare equivalent of a supermarket shelf it seems a bit churlish to complain about the odd item being taken. We can always protect stuff we don’t want to share.

I end my address for the defence of the hare Your Honour. In truth we need the wildlife, the whole spectrum from microbes to badgers, is part of nature’s balance and we need to do what we can to maintain it (and our crops – with a bit missing sometimes).

As Winter Approaches- What to do Outdoors

So, what jobs you need to think of doing as autumn comes in your garden or allotment in the vein of Monty Don. I have to say his ‘jobs to do’ bit always incenses me. Nonetheless, if you can’t beat them!!! Here goes.

First, sit back and do nothing. Think about what went well, what was unsatisfactory and what, if anything, you want to do about it. If you haven’t ordered any seeds or plants this is probably a good time to do it, especially as Brexit and Covid could cause some shortages, so get in early.

If you have areas of bare ground it is a good idea to mulch them with whatever mulch suits you, manure, compost or a decorative mulch such as bark.

Alternatively, you could sow a cover crop such as winter tares to protect the soil and put fibre and nitrogen into it for next year’s plants, October is not too late.

Finally, think about those plants, both ornamental and fruit, that will require a winter prune. As they become dormant just do a gentle tidy while it’s not too cold, taking out crossing or unwanted branches. I always think it is worth leaving the final prune until early spring when you can see if the winter has caused any dieback and then cut back to good wood.

Now sit back and warm up. You can now complain bitterly about me.

Happy gardening.
Tony Lewis